Splits & Swarms: Prevention, Catching & Making Increase

Every spring, beekeepers face the same tension: your strongest colonies are the ones most likely to swarm. The biology that makes them vigorous also makes them want to reproduce. Understanding why bees swarm, how to prevent it, and what to do when prevention fails is one of the most important skill sets in beekeeping. This guide covers the full lifecycle of swarm management -- from reading the warning signs to making deliberate splits, catching swarms, and building your apiary through controlled colony increase.

Think of this as your swarm playbook. Whether you are trying to stop a colony from leaving, hoping to catch one that already did, or planning to split hives as a management strategy, the answers are here.

Why Bees Swarm

Swarming is honey bee reproduction at the colony level. It is not a sign of failure or poor management -- it is a biological imperative as fundamental as foraging or brood rearing. A colony that swarms is a healthy colony doing what millions of years of evolution programmed it to do.

The Reproductive Drive

A honey bee colony is a superorganism. Individual bees are more like cells in a body than independent organisms. Swarming is how that superorganism reproduces:

The old queen leaves with roughly 50--60% of the worker bees
A new queen is raised in the original hive from a fertilized egg or young larva
Two colonies now exist where there was one

The swarm typically lands on a nearby surface -- a tree branch, fence post, or bush -- within 100 yards of the parent hive. Scout bees then search for a permanent cavity while the cluster waits. This temporary cluster is what beekeepers attempt to catch.

Triggers for Swarming

Several converging factors push a colony toward swarming:

Congestion: The brood nest becomes crowded with bees, brood, and stores, leaving the queen fewer empty cells to lay in
Queen age: Older queens (2+ years) produce less queen mandibular pheromone (QMP), which fails to suppress the workers' urge to build queen cells
Abundant resources: A strong nectar flow combined with ample pollen signals that conditions favor reproduction
Demographics: A high ratio of young nurse bees relative to brood means the colony can afford to send workers away
Genetics: Some bloodlines are more swarm-prone than others -- Italian bees tend to be calmer, while Russian and Carniolan bees build up fast and swarm readily

🐝 Key Insight: Swarming peaks in spring and early summer when nectar flows are strongest and populations are at their largest. In most of North America, prime swarm season runs April through June.

Signs a Colony Is Preparing to Swarm

Swarm preparation is not instant. Colonies signal their intent over days or weeks. Learning to read these signs gives you a window to intervene.

Primary Indicators

Sign	What to Look For	Urgency
Queen cells	Peanut-shaped cells hanging from the bottom or face of comb	Critical -- swarm may be days away
Queen cups	Small acorn-shaped cups at bottom bars, with or without eggs/larva	Warning -- pre-swarm planning stage
Reduced foraging	Fewer bees bringing in pollen/nectar despite good weather	High -- workforce is orienting to new queen
Queen slimming	The queen appears noticeably thinner (she stops laying to lose weight for flight)	Very high -- swarm is imminent
Bearding	Large clusters of bees hanging on the front of the hive, even in moderate weather	Moderate to high -- congestion or overheating
Backfilled brood nest	Nectar or honey stored in cells that previously held brood	High -- workers are limiting queen's laying space
Drone production surge	Large amounts of drone brood and drones present	Moderate -- normal in spring, but amplifies swarm impulse

How to Check for Queen Cells

During inspections in spring and early summer, examine the following areas carefully:

Bottom bars of frames: Swarm cells are typically built on the lower edges
Frame faces: Emergency or supersedure cells may appear on the comb surface
Between boxes: Check the space where deep and medium boxes meet

⚠️ Warning: If you find queen cells with a rotted, dark larva or pupa inside and the cell still sealed, the colony may have already swarmed. Open a few cells gently to confirm. An empty, opened queen cell with a crisp emergence cap means the virgin has already emerged.

The Swarm Timeline

Understanding how fast things move helps you plan interventions:

10--14 days before swarm: Workers begin building queen cups
7--10 days before swarm: Eggs are laid in queen cups; queen begins slimming
3--5 days before swarm: Queen cells are capped; the countdown is locked in
Day of swarm: The old queen departs, usually between 10 AM and 2 PM on a warm, sunny day
8--10 days after swarm: First virgin queen emerges in parent hive

Swarm Prevention Techniques

The best swarm management is prevention. Once queen cells are capped, your options narrow significantly. These techniques address the root causes of swarming before they escalate.

Adding Space

The simplest and most underused prevention method:

Add a super before the colony needs it -- when the top box is 70% full of bees, not when it is packed
Reverse brood boxes in spring: move the empty bottom box to the top so the queen has room to expand upward
Add drawn comb to the brood nest during inspections by inserting empty frames between drawn frames
Use a queen excluder thoughtfully -- an excluder that traps the queen in a congested box accelerates swarm impulse

Checkerboarding

This technique breaks the honey barrier above the brood nest:

Identify the honey crown (the band of stored honey above the brood)
In the box above the brood nest, alternate frames of honey with frames of empty drawn comb
Add a second box on top with the remaining honey frames and more empty comb
The bees perceive empty space above the brood and delay swarming

Checkerboarding works best when done 2--4 weeks before the main nectar flow in your area. It is most effective with double-deep configurations.

The Demaree Method

A classic technique that keeps the colony intact while relieving congestion:

Move the queen (on her frame of brood) to the bottom box
Place a queen excluder on top of the bottom box
Add one or more supers of drawn comb above the excluder
Place the remaining brood frames in the topmost box, above the supers
Destroy any queen cells in the top box at each inspection (every 7 days)

The foragers return to the bottom box with the queen. Nurse bees in the top box raise the brood but cannot raise a new queen because the queen pheromone distribution (passing through the excluder with bee movement) suppresses the impulse. Check every 7 days and destroy any queen cells that appear above the excluder.

Removing Queen Cells

This is a temporary measure, not a long-term solution:

Cut out or destroy all queen cells during inspection
Return in 5--7 days and destroy any new cells the bees have started
The colony will keep trying. If you miss a single cell, they will swarm
This works as a stopgap to buy time for a proper split or Demaree setup

🐝 Pro Tip: If you find more than 10 queen cells, the colony is deeply committed to swarming. Cell removal alone will not stop them. Make a split instead.

Types of Splits

Splits are the beekeeper's most versatile tool. They prevent swarms, increase colony numbers, produce queens, and manage mites. Different methods suit different goals.

Comparison of Split Types

Method	Queens Needed	Difficulty	Time to Queen-Right	Best For
Walkaway	None (bees raise their own)	Easy	4--6 weeks	Beginners; swarm prevention
Queen-right	1 purchased or raised queen	Moderate	Immediate (queen introduced)	Rapid buildup; known genetics
Queenless	None initially; combine later	Moderate	Varies	Demaree-style management
Swarm cell	None (use existing queen cells)	Easy-Moderate	2--4 weeks	When swarm cells are already present

Choosing the Right Split

You want maximum simplicity: Walkaway split
You want predictable genetics and fast buildup: Queen-right split with a purchased queen
You already found swarm cells: Use them -- swarm cell split
You want nucleus colonies for overwintering: Make nucs from any split type

Walkaway Split Step-by-Step

The walkaway split is the most beginner-friendly method. You split the colony and walk away -- the bees handle the rest by raising a new queen from existing eggs or young larvae.

What You Need

A second complete hive setup (bottom board, boxes, frames, lid, entrance reducer)
Additional frames with foundation or drawn comb to fill out both hives
Your standard inspection gear (smoker, hive tool, protective equipment)

Steps

Prepare the new hive location -- Place the new setup at least 3 feet from the parent hive, or move it 2+ miles away to prevent drift back. A location 10+ feet away works well.
Open the parent hive on a warm, calm day (above 60°F / 15°C) when bees are flying.
Find the queen -- This is the most important step. Scan each frame carefully. Mark her location.
Assess the resources -- Count frames of brood (eggs, larvae, capped), honey, and pollen.
Divide the frames between the two hives:
- Each hive should have: 3--4 frames of brood (including at least one frame with eggs or very young larvae for the queenless half), 1--2 frames of honey, 1--2 frames of pollen, and the remaining frames filled with drawn comb or foundation
- Ensure the queenless half has eggs/young larvae so they can raise a new queen
Place the queen in the original hive location (she stays put; foragers return to her).
Move the queenless half to the new location. The foragers that were on those frames will fly back to the original hive, which is fine -- the queenless split has nurse bees and brood.
Reduce the entrance on the queenless split to a small opening (1--2 inches) to prevent robbing while the colony is small.
Feed both colonies -- Provide 1:1 sugar syrup to stimulate growth in both hives.
Wait 4 weeks, then inspect the queenless split for a laying queen. You should see eggs and young larvae by this point.
If no queen is present after 5--6 weeks, combine the split back with the parent colony or introduce a purchased queen.

⚠️ Common Mistake: Do not make the split too small. Each half needs at least 3 frames of brood covered with bees to have the workforce to rebuild. A weak split may fail to raise a viable queen or starve before establishing itself.

Queen-Right Split Step-by-Step

A queen-right split introduces a mated queen to the new colony immediately. This eliminates the 4--6 week wait for a self-raised queen and gives you control over the genetics of the new hive.

What You Need

A purchased or raised mated queen (order 2--3 weeks ahead of when you plan to split)
A queen introduction cage (the shipping cage usually works)
Second complete hive setup
A spray bottle with 1:1 sugar syrup

Steps

Prepare the new hive in its permanent location before you begin.
Open the parent hive and find the queen. Set her frame aside safely in a nuc box or covered container.
Select frames for the split -- Choose 3--4 frames of capped brood with adhering bees, 1--2 frames of honey, and 1 frame of pollen. Do not include the old queen in any of these frames.
Place selected frames in the new hive. Fill remaining space with drawn comb or foundation.
Shake additional nurse bees from 2--3 more brood frames into the new hive to boost population. (Foragers will fly back to the parent hive, leaving the nurse bees behind.)
Introduce the new queen:
- Remove the cork from the candy end of the queen cage
- Place the cage between two center frames, candy end up, with the screen exposed to the bees
- The bees will eat through the candy plug over 2--3 days, releasing the queen
Close the new hive and reduce the entrance to prevent robbing.
Return the old queen's frame to the parent hive and reassemble.
Feed both colonies with 1:1 sugar syrup.
Check queen release after 3--4 days. Gently open the hive and verify the cage is empty and the queen is walking freely on the frames.
Verify egg laying at the 7-day mark. You should see a solid pattern of eggs and young larvae.

🐝 Pro Tip: If you are splitting multiple hives, coordinate queen deliveries. Queens shipped via USPS usually arrive within 2--3 days. Have someone available to install them immediately -- queens degrade quickly in shipping cages. A queen bank (a queenless nuc that holds multiple caged queens) can buy you a few extra days.

Making Nucs

A nucleus colony (nuc) is a small, self-sufficient colony typically housed in a 5-frame box. Nucs serve many purposes: queen rearing, swarm prevention, colony increase, overwintering, and selling to other beekeepers.

Setting Up a Nuc

Start with a 5-frame nuc box -- wooden or corrugated plastic both work
Frame composition (5 frames total):
- 2 frames of brood (eggs through capped) with adhering nurse bees
- 1 frame of honey
- 1 frame of pollen
- 1 frame of drawn comb (for the queen to lay in)
Add a queen -- either a mated queen (fastest) or let the bees raise one from eggs
Feed continuously with 1:1 syrup in a small feeder
Reduce the entrance to 1 inch to prevent robbing

Nuc Management

Nucs require more frequent attention than full-size hives because they have smaller resource buffers:

Feed regularly -- nucs can run out of food in days, not weeks
Monitor every 7--10 days for queen status, food stores, and space
Add a second nuc box or transfer to a full-size hive when bees cover 80% of frames
Provide shade in hot weather -- small colonies overheat and struggle more than large ones

Overwintering Nucs

Overwintering nucs is an advanced skill but incredibly rewarding:

Start nucs by mid-June (in northern areas) or by August (in southern areas) so they have time to build a cluster-sized population
Going into winter, the nuc should have 4--5 frames of bees, a laying queen, and at least 2 full frames of honey
Insulate well -- nuc boxes have less thermal mass than full hives
Reduce entrance to minimum and add a mouse guard
Use a quilt board or moisture-absorbing inner cover to manage condensation
Consider double-nuc configuration -- two nucs sharing one 10-frame box with a divider, which provides mutual warmth

🐝 Key Point: An overwintered nuc is worth its weight in gold. It gives you a locally adapted queen heading into spring, ready to build up fast when other beekeepers are waiting for package bee shipments.

Swarm Catching

Despite your best prevention efforts, you will encounter swarms -- your own or a neighbor's. Catching swarms is one of the most exhilarating parts of beekeeping.

Equipment for Swarm Catching

Keep a swarm kit ready during spring and summer:

Item	Purpose
Cardboard nuc box or 8-frame hive body	Container for the swarm
Frames with drawn comb	Gives bees a head start; comb scent attracts them
Bee brush or feather	Gentle sweeping of bees into the box
Spray bottle with 1:1 syrup	Calms bees and makes them easier to handle
Sheet or tarp	Placed under the cluster as a catching surface
Secateurs or pruning saw	Cutting branches if needed
Ratchet strap or tie-down	Securing the box for transport
Veil and gloves	Protection -- swarms are usually gentle, but be prepared
Lemongrass oil	Bait lure for the swarm or trap

Catching a Swarm on a Branch

Assess the cluster -- Note its size, height, and how it is attached. A cluster the size of a softball is roughly 10,000 bees; a basketball is 30,000+.
Place your catching box directly below the cluster on a sheet or tarp. Remove the lid and set it aside.
Give the cluster one quick spray of sugar syrup to calm the bees and make their wings slightly sticky.
Give the branch a single, sharp shake -- The goal is to dislodge the entire cluster in one motion so it falls into the box. This is the preferred method.
Alternatively, if the branch is reachable, clip it and lower the entire cluster into the box. This is gentler and more reliable for small clusters.
Wait and watch -- After the main cluster drops, bees will begin fanning at the box entrance. This is the Nassanov gland releasing pheromone that calls stragglers to the new location.
Set the lid loosely on the box, allowing stragglers to enter. Leave the setup for 30--60 minutes until most bees have moved inside.
Seal the box and transport to its new location. If moving less than 2 miles, seal the entrance with mesh and keep the box cool and shaded for 24 hours before releasing.

Bait Hives and Swarm Traps

Bait hives are artificial cavities placed to attract passing swarms. They are a passive way to increase your apiary.

Ideal bait hive specifications:

Volume: 40 liters (roughly the size of a deep 10-frame box or 5-frame nuc box with a follower board)
Entrance: 2 square inches, located near the bottom, facing south or southeast
Height: 8--15 feet above ground (on a ladder, in a tree, or on a building)
Interior: Dark, dry, with a few frames of old drawn comb (bees prefer comb that has been used before)
Lure: Apply 5--10 drops of lemongrass oil to a cotton ball or the top bar of a frame, refreshed every 2--3 weeks

When to set traps: Place bait hives 2--3 weeks before your area's historical swarm season. In most of the US, that means mid-March to early April.

⚠️ Safety Note: Never climb higher than you are comfortable to catch a swarm. No bees are worth a fall. Use a pole with a bucket attachment for high clusters, or let them go. Swarms that establish in high locations often fail on their own anyway -- cavity competition is fierce.

Hiving a Swarm

Once you have caught a swarm, getting it established in a permanent hive is straightforward but requires some timing.

Step-by-Step Hiving

Prepare the hive before opening the swarm box. Set up a full-size hive with drawn comb in the lower box and a feeder.
Wait until evening to hive the swarm if possible -- this prevents bees from flying back to the capture site.
Remove 4--5 frames from the center of the bottom box to create an open well.
Shake or pour the swarm into the open space in one quick motion.
Replace frames gently, allowing bees to move between the combs.
Place the inner cover and lid on the hive.
Install an entrance reducer set to the smallest opening.
Feed immediately with 1:1 sugar syrup. Swarms have a remarkable ability to draw comb quickly when fed -- this is one of the best times to get new comb drawn.

When to Requeen a Caught Swarm

Not all swarms are worth keeping as-is. Consider requeening in these situations:

Unknown genetics: The swarm came from a feral colony or unknown source -- you have no idea about temperament or productivity
Africanized bees: In areas where Africanized honey bees (AHB) are present (southern US, particularly Texas, Florida, Arizona, southern California), requeen any swarm of unknown origin immediately
Old queen: If the swarm's queen appears small, dark, or worn, she may be nearing the end of her productive life
Poor temperament: If the swarm shows excessive defensiveness after a week of settling, replace the queen

Requeening a swarm: Wait 3--5 days after hiving to let the colony settle. Then introduce a new mated queen using a standard cage introduction method. The bees will accept a new queen more readily during this establishment period than they would later.

Cutouts

A cutout is the process of removing an established honey bee colony from a structure -- a wall, ceiling, tree hollow, shed, or other enclosed space. This is the most challenging type of bee removal and is often best left to experienced professionals.

DIY vs. Professional

Factor	DIY	Professional
Experience needed	2+ years beekeeping, prior cutout mentorship	Trained and equipped
Liability	You bear all risk of property damage	Insured for structural work
Equipment	Extensive: reciprocating saw, bee vacuum, scaffolding	Professional-grade tools
Time	4--8 hours for a typical cutout	2--4 hours with experience
Success rate	Variable -- queen loss and colony death are common	85--95% colony survival
When to call a pro	Colony in a load-bearing wall, above 10 feet, or in a chimney	Always recommended for these cases

Basic Cutout Process

If you decide to proceed with a cutout:

Confirm the colony -- Observe flight patterns and listen with a stethoscope to locate the extent of the comb
Expose the colony -- Carefully remove siding, drywall, or other building materials to reveal all comb
Cut out each piece of comb -- Secure brood comb into empty frames using rubber bands; honey comb goes into a bucket
Capture the queen -- The success of the entire operation depends on finding and safely caging the queen
Vacuum or shake bees into a nuc or hive body
Install the secured brood frames into the receiving hive with the queen
Seal the cavity to prevent future colonies from moving in
Monitor the hive for 2--3 weeks to ensure the queen is laying and the colony is rebuilding

⚠️ Important: Never attempt a cutout without proper structural knowledge. Cutting into walls can reveal wiring, plumbing, or compromise structural integrity. When in doubt, hire a professional bee removal service -- not just an exterminator, but someone who will relocate the bees alive.

After-Split Management

Making the split is only half the job. How you manage the new colonies in the weeks following determines whether they thrive or struggle.

Feeding

Feed both halves continuously with 1:1 sugar syrup for at least 2--3 weeks after splitting
Provide pollen patties if natural pollen is scarce -- brood production depends on protein
Stop feeding when bees are drawing comb slowly and the colony has adequate stores (2--3 frames of honey)
Resume feeding in fall if the new colony has not built up sufficient winter stores (aim for 60--80 lbs of honey in a full-size hive by first frost)

Monitoring Queen Acceptance

For splits that must raise their own queen:

Timeframe	What to Check
Week 1	Queen cells present and capped -- do not disturb them
Week 2	Virgin queen should have emerged -- look for a small, fast-moving queen
Week 3	Virgin should be mating -- do not open the hive during this period if possible
Week 4	Check for eggs and larvae -- confirms successful mating and a laying queen
Week 5--6	If no eggs, plan to combine with another colony or introduce a purchased queen

For splits with introduced queens:

Day 3--4: Check that the queen has been released from her cage
Day 7: Look for eggs -- confirms acceptance
Day 14: Brood pattern should be solid and expanding

Building Up New Colonies

Add space proactively -- when 7 of 10 frames are drawn or covered with bees, add another box
Monitor for pests and diseases -- small colonies are vulnerable to wax moths and small hive beetles, especially in warm weather
Combine weak splits -- If a split is struggling (less than 3 frames of bees after 3 weeks), combine it with another split or a strong colony using the newspaper method
Track in your inspection log -- Record split date, queen status, colony strength, and feeding schedule for both halves

Timing Splits by Region and Season

Timing is everything. Split too early and the new colony cannot support itself. Split too late and the parent colony may already be committed to swarming.

Regional Calendar

Region	Best Split Window	Notes
US Gulf States (FL, TX, LA, MS, AL)	February -- April	Split early; nectar flow starts early
US Southeast (GA, SC, NC, TN)	March -- May	Strong spring flow supports rapid buildup
US Mid-Atlantic (VA, MD, PA, NJ)	April -- May	Split during apple/dandelion bloom
US Midwest (OH, IN, IL, IA, MO)	April -- June	Split when dandelions are in full bloom
US Northeast (NY, MA, VT, ME, NH)	May -- June	Wait until consistent 60°F+ weather
US Pacific Northwest (WA, OR)	April -- June	Maritime climate extends the window
US Mountain West (CO, UT, MT, WY)	May -- July	Short season -- split early in the flow
US Southwest (AZ, NM, NV)	March -- May	Desert flows are brief -- act fast
Southern California	February -- April	Early springs; year-round management possible
Northern California	April -- June	Depends on elevation
Canada (southern ON, QC, BC)	May -- June	Short window; feed aggressively
UK / Ireland	May -- June	Watch for the spring flow (oilseed rape, hawthorn)
Australia / NZ	September -- November	Southern Hemisphere spring

The Dandelion Rule

A reliable phenological indicator: when dandelions are blooming in your area, it is time to think about splits. Dandelions signal that the spring nectar flow has begun in earnest and colonies are building rapidly. Check for swarm cells at this point and plan your splits within the next 2--3 weeks.

Common Splitting Mistakes

Even experienced beekeepers make errors during splits. These are the pitfalls to avoid:

1. Splitting Too Small

Each half of a split needs enough bees and brood to function as a viable colony. A split with only 1--2 frames of brood will likely fail to raise a healthy queen, defend against pests, or forage effectively. Minimum: 3 frames of brood covered with bees in each half.

2. Not Ensuring Eggs in the Queenless Half

The queenless portion of a walkaway split must have eggs or larvae less than 3 days old. Without these, the bees cannot raise a new queen. Verify this before closing the hive.

3. Disturbing the Queenless Split Too Soon

After making a split, leave the queenless half alone for at least 2 weeks. Opening the hive too frequently disrupts queen cell construction, can chill the developing queen, and may cause the bees to abandon their queen-rearing effort entirely.

4. Forgetting to Feed

Both halves of a split have reduced foraging forces relative to their needs. The queenless half lost foragers that drifted back; the queen-right half lost nurse bees that stayed with the brood. Feed both colonies aggressively for at least 2--3 weeks.

5. Splitting Without a Plan for the Queen

Decide before you open the hive: which half gets the old queen? Where does the new queen come from? If you plan to buy a queen, order her 2--3 weeks in advance. If you expect the bees to raise one, confirm there are eggs in the queenless half.

6. Splitting a Weak Colony

Only split colonies that are strong and healthy. If a colony is struggling with disease, mites, or poor queen performance, splitting will weaken both halves and likely result in the loss of one or both. Address the underlying issues first.

7. Ignoring Varroa in New Colonies

A split does not reduce mite loads. The mites go with the brood. Monitor Varroa in both halves and treat as needed, especially in late summer when mite populations peak.

Using Splits for Varroa Management

One of the most underappreciated benefits of splitting is the brood break it creates -- a period when no capped brood is present in the hive. During a brood break, Varroa mites have nowhere to reproduce, and their population drops.

The Brood Break Strategy

Make a split using any method (walkaway is typical for this purpose)
The queenless half now has no laying queen for 3--4 weeks while they raise a new one
During this period, all the original brood emerges and the mites are phoretic (riding on adult bees, not hidden in cells)
This is the ideal window to apply an oxalic acid treatment -- it kills phoretic mites with high efficiency since there is no capped brood to protect them
After the new queen begins laying, the mite population has been dramatically reduced

Treatment Timing

Stage	Days After Split	Action
Split made	Day 0	Divide colony, queen in one half
All original brood emerges	Day 21	Apply oxalic acid vapor or dribble
Queen cells capped	Day 7--10	Do not disturb
Virgin queen emerges	Day 14--18	Do not disturb
Queen begins laying	Day 25--35	Verify brood pattern, assess mite levels

Why This Works

Varroa mites reproduce inside capped brood cells. When no brood is being capped, mites cannot reproduce. A well-timed split followed by an oxalic acid treatment during the resulting brood break can reduce mite loads by 90--95% without using synthetic chemicals. This is one of the most effective organic Varroa management strategies available.

Limitations

The brood break only occurs in the queenless half of the split
The queen-right half continues to produce brood and needs separate mite monitoring
This strategy works best as part of an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) plan, not as the sole mite control method
Timing is critical -- apply the treatment when all brood has emerged (around day 21) for maximum effectiveness

🐝 Advanced Strategy: For operations with 10+ hives, stagger splits across the apiary over 2--3 weeks. This creates overlapping brood breaks and treatment windows, reducing the overall mite pressure across the entire yard without requiring all colonies to be split simultaneously.

References

Caron, D.M. & Connor, L.J. (2013). Honey Bee Biology and Beekeeping. Wicwas Press.
Delaplane, K.S. & Harbo, J.R. (1987). "Demaree Splitting: A Swarm Prevention Technique." American Bee Journal, 127(5), 335--337.
Seeley, T.D. (2010). Honeybee Democracy. Princeton University Press.
Winston, M.L. (1991). The Biology of the Honey Bee. Harvard University Press.
USDA Agricultural Research Service. (2024). "Varroa Mite Management Options for Beekeepers." ARS Technical Bulletin.
Honey Bee Health Coalition. (2025). Tools for Varroa Management. Available at: honeybeehealthcoalition.org/varroa
Mangum, W.A. (2020). "Swarm Trapping: Bait Hives and the Biology of Swarming." Bee Culture, 148(2), 41--46.
Congdon, B. (2023). Nucleus Colonies: Building a Better Beekeeping Business. Self-published.
Brushy Mountain Bee Farm. (2025). "Checkerboarding for Swarm Prevention." Technical Guide Series.
Penn State Extension. (2025). "Beekeeping 101: Splitting Hives." Online course materials.

Splits & Swarms: Prevention, Catching & Making Increase

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